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REVIEW: Cut – faultless steaks and exotic meats at new Bormla steakhouse
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REVIEW: CUT- FAULTLESS STEAKS AND EXOTIC MEATS AT NEW BORMLA STEAKHOUSE
Let me just begin by saying that Cut Steakhouse has probably one of the most stunning commercial kitchens I have seen in a restaurant in Malta (and I always like to go behind the scenes). So when you have a talented chef like Jonathan Vassallo, who is given this to play with, of course he is going to cook up some magic.
Cut, is the brainchild of Keith Seychell of Capo Crudo. Him and his team have managed to give birth to a really really worthy steakhouse (in fact the quality of Hawksmoor and Goodman in London).
As with all steakhouses, meat is the focus, but unlike a few steakhouses in Malta, CUT goes extra and beyond with their offering. It really is a carnivores palace.
Located in Bormla, Cut Steakhouse is very hard to miss. Bright red faux leather seatings are omnipresent in the large outdoor dining area. Red is the recurring colour throughout the restaurant’s interiors.
Cut, is the brainchild of Keith Seychell of Capo Crudo. Him and his team have managed to give birth to a really really worthy steakhouse (in fact the quality of Hawksmoor and Goodman in London).
As with all steakhouses, meat is the focus, but unlike a few steakhouses in Malta, CUT goes extra and beyond with their offering. It really is a carnivores palace.
Located in Bormla, Cut Steakhouse is very hard to miss. Bright red faux leather seatings are omnipresent in the large outdoor dining area. Red is the recurring colour throughout the restaurant’s interiors.
The space is much bigger than expected and gives out flashy Las Vegas type vibes. The only factor that separates diners from the very theatrical kitchen are glass walls. You can watch the brigade work in harmony to make sure what’s on your plate is top.
The starters include a selection of mighty fine sausages from the meat counter, beef fillet tartare, sticky chipotle chicken wings (glazed with a lime and maple syrup), herb bone marrow, a signature Thai-inspired soup of chicken and beef swimming in a coconut-based broth with lemongrass, spring onions, chilli and ginger.
The concept here is simple. You choose your preferred cut from the meat counter display, market style and they cook it for you.
The selection is as long as the bible and is one of the most impressive and comprehensive I have seen in a steakhouse outside of Malta thus far (not to say i've been to every steak joint on the island).
I went for the three-month aged rib-eye (aged in-house in their chamber) and have absolutely no regrets. The high quality is evident from the first sight to the last bite.
The lightly-seasoned perfectly seared slab of meat shows that not only does the kitchen clearly have an affinity for cow, the cow they choose to serve was fed very well.
Everything from its smooth, rich texture and delicious beefy flavour, thanks to the silky marbling, was exemplary.
However, the piece de resistance for me had to be the exotic meats. I am a sucker for most meats of the exotic kind (please don’t @ me), and that’s what I was really looking forward to trying. What was presented to us on the table was a platter with our selected meats.
A glorious crocodile fillet wrapped in banana leaf made its very strong presence felt on the palate. The glistening white meat was exceptionally juicy and tender. Crocodile is very similar to chicken in terms of nutritional composition and texture.
Like chicken, in the wrong hands, it is very easy to overcook resulting in dryness and a chewy texture. Here, it was definitely not the case.
Both the ostrich and zebra sparked powerful bullets of intense flavour. So succulent that not much knife and fork play was needed. Both were earthy, lean and saliva-inducing.
So did this steakhouse make the...cut? Yes indeed, it’s in your face flashiness may not be for some but the meat is executed undeniably exquisitely.
They have certainly raised the steaks, leaving no stone unturned!
Cut Steakhouse
Xatt ir-Riżq
Bormla
Website
Elsa Messi
Food connoisseur, curiosity feeder and travel queen. Londoner who has lived in Tokyo and now based in Malta.
I like what I C: Cheese, cats, consuming cuisines, canines, cooking, clothes and countries. I also like taking long romantic walks to the fridge.
