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WCM predicts which restaurants in Malta will make it to the 2020 Michelin Guide
An animal-free circus with gravity-defying international acts is coming to Malta
December 18, 2019
A street food fusion eatery in St Julian’s offering dishes from across the globe
December 21, 2019
Photo: Copyright - What's Cooking, Malta?
MICHELIN GUIDE 2020 PREDICTION: RESTAURANTS IN MALTA THAT SHOULD BE INCLUDED
Following the breaking news that Michelin will at long last include restaurants in Malta in their 2020 Guide , I thought it would be fun to give my personal prediction of which eateries will be included (or the ones I think deserve it).
However, there has been a bit of confusion so let me clear it up. The Michelin inspectors have secretly visited some restaurants here already and will select which are worthy of inclusion in next year's guide book.
It does NOT mean that these restaurants will be receiving stars. In fact, I doubt that Malta will receive a star just yet, but who knows (fingers crossed). The usual eateries selected in the guide are not always star-awarded and aren't limited to fine dining.
Based on my professional opinion, and having been to a lot of Michelin-starred and Michelin-recommended restaurants across the globe, here are the restaurants in Malta that I think will (or should) be selected for the Michelin Guide 2020.
In NO particular order (and most of them tried and tested):
1
Noni, Valletta
Photo: Copyright - What's Cooking Malta
Jonathan Brincat has truly impressed me with his exemplary dishes cooked to high perfection. Situated in Valletta, Noni offers high-level Meditteranean cuisine expertly plated and prepared. The service is impeccable without being pretentious.
Noni would definitely shine in any capital city and my highlight dishes included the most succulent slow-cooked octopus tagine with couscous and the roasted rump of lamb with moussaka, crumbled feta and lamb jus (the latter is no longer on the menu)!
Noni Valletta
211 Republic Street
Valletta
Website
2
Briju, Gzira
Chef patron Rafel Sammut has been making waves and raising the bar with his new farm-to-fork gem, which opened in September 2019. People swarm to it on a daily basis and I have yet to hear anything but raving reviews.
The menu changes often and truly focuses on sustainable eating and sourcing ingredients straight from local independent farmers. Sammut recently hosted a dinner at the prestigious Esquite Townhouse in London and that says a lot.
Examples of dishes you can find include agnolotti filled with liquid pecorino, local black chicken, rosemary and lemon juice. Served with a confit egg yolk, celery heart and fennel tops.
What is guaranteed is passion on a plate. If Briju didn't catch the attention of the Michelin inspectors... I'd be very surprised.
Briju
Briju, Triq L-Imsida
Gzira
Website
3
de Mondion, Mdina
Being from central London and having eaten my way across the city, there is no doubt in my mind that not only should de Mondion definitely be included in the Michelin 2020 Guide, but also deserve a star when the time comes.
The ambience, the service, the plating and the atmosphere create the experience that Michelin craves for when awarding a star.
The food is technical, creative but does not try too hard.
What is important is that head chef Kevin Bonello doesn't just focus on what his dishes look like aesthetically, but provides real substance and complexity to the palate.
I recently tasted some of his dishes at a four-hands dinner with a two-Michelin starred-chef and was blown away.
The de Mondion Restaurant
Xara Palace Relais & Chateau
Misraħ il-Kunsill
Mdina
Website
4
Bahia, Lija
Bahia are known for their creative dinner events such as the blindfolded dinner or an upside down tasting menu (where you start with desserts), however, these events and their dishes are in no way gimmicky.
Although, I have not yet visited yet (yet being the operative word), it has been thrown in my face by my highly reputable epicurean friends and by the perfect score reviews across the foodie world.
Dishes on the current menu includes wild mushroom consomme with fermented king oyster sashimi or slow poached veal sweetbreads with lentil casserole.
This modern European goldmine prides itself on serving dishes worthy of at least a Bib Gourmand. Note to self, get your derriere there soon!
Bahia
Triq Preziosi
Lija
Website
5
Caviar & Bull, St Julian's
Just Google 'best fine dining restaurants in Malta' and Caviar & Bull will no doubt come up. Marvin Gauci and his dedicated team have managed to produce a bespoke restaurant that provides a memorable fine dining experience.
Why would Michelin select them for inclusion in the 2020 Guide? Perhaps because of their uniquely creative degustation menus or dishes that look like they belong in a museum in New York's art scene.
Not just for the impeccable plating though or their stellar reputation, but because the food is genuinely deserving.
Caviar & Bull
Corinthia Hotel
St George's Bay
St Julian's
Website
6
Root 81, Rabat
Root 81 has only been opened since November 2017 but the amount of press coverage, awards and love it has received (including from myself) is truly impeccable and well-deserved.
Chef patron Robert Cassar cooks fantastic dishes with such passion and care. I've been around three times and always had a consistent dining experience whilst being taken aback by the mouth-watering and aesthetically Mediterranean fare.
At Root81, you can expect cosy surroundings, service with a smile and seasonal dishes that will make those incognito Michelin inspectors take notice.
Root 81
Telgha tas-Saqqajja
Rabat
Website
7
Shakinah, Ta' Xbiex
The amount of Indian Michelin-starred or Michelin-recommended restaurants that I have been to in London is pretty vast. Shakinah one hundred percent deserves to be in the guide's list of Malta restaurants (we are not talking about a star).
This casual fine dining Indian restaurant ticks all the boxes of what is required. There isn't anything I don't like about Shakinah. I do prefer their starters and Tandoori meats to the curries, but perhaps that is personal taste.
The stare-worthy dishes will excite your tastebuds and the designer interiors looks like your dining in a Wes Anderson movie!
Don't fight me on this, if you haven't been, go!
Shakinah
Ta' Xbiex Seafront
Msida
Wesbite
8
Capo Crudo, Valletta
Capo Crudo is a gastronomic powerhouse fittingly perched right by the sea. The menu specialises in premium and luxury crudo and seafood dishes that are prepared and plated by seemingly magic hands.
Expect a superlative dining experience created by excellent service, great hospitality and dishes such as local prawn tartare, local seabass carpaccio and deconstructed mushrooms... executed in an innovative way. The pasta and meat dishes are forces to be reckoned with.
Capo Crudo
Triq Il-Lanċa
Valletta
Website
9
The Golden Fork, Attard
The Golden Fork opened its doors in July 2019 and I knew it'd be a big hit as soon as I announced the news! The chef patron, Letizia Vella, has had extensive culinary experience both locally and internationally.
She has worked under Heston Blumenthal, one of the best chefs in the world (and one of my favourites) at The Fat Duck (three-Michelin) as an intern and Dinner by Heston (two-Michelin) as a Chef de Partie. She has also worked at Root 81 and Barracuda, so it's safe to say that she knows what she's doing.
I thoroughly enjoyed my dining experience there and you'll find seasonal dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisine in a cosy setting.
The Golden Fork
Triq il-Kbira
Attard
Website
10
Rubino, Valletta
You'll never know what will be on the menu at Rubino since it changes practically everyday depending on the ingredients available. One thing is guaranteed... top notch dishes that are hard to replicate.
This award-winning family-run restaurant has managed to consistently drop the jaws of happy diners for decades.
Example of past dishes include calamari stuffed with deep-fried lampuki served on a carrot puree or stuffed quail with nuts and fruit, rolled in parma ham on a sweet potato puree, topped with porcini mushroom sauce.
Rubino Restaurant
53 Old Bakery Street
Valletta
Website
11
Surf n Turf, St Paul's Bay
Photo: Copyright - What's Cooking, Malta?
Surf n Turf is a formidable Mediterranean casual fine dining restaurant led by 30-year-old chef patron Kerstin Manicolo and his charismatic, knowledgable and highly-experience partner in crime, Joshua Borg (restaurant manager and sommelier).
Here you'll find a combination of refined French techniques, local produce and undeniable elegance.
My highlights included the Scottish scallops carpaccio, theatrically smoked at the table with Allier oak, the delectably silky fish and shellfish soup, the Barbary duck with a dried cranberry reduction and the local pork served with crispy crackling, butternut squash puree and caramelised shallots.
Surf n Turf
Triq L-Imhar Qawra
St Paul's Bay
Website
12
Townhouse No3, Rabat
Chef patron Malcolm Bartolo has ensured that his 17 years of working in the kitchens of some of the best restaurants and hotel shows in what he cooks at Townhouse No3.
Here you'll find a 'less is more' approach where the local produce being used speak for themselves. Townhouse No3 is not 'in your face' or a place to be seen, but a place where real gourmands flock to.
Dishes are a cross between fine dining and rustic. The current menu includes delights such as pumpkin risotto with squid, prawns and cured pork cheese.
Townhouse No3
3&4 Republic Street
Rabat
Website
13
Ali Baba, Gzira
Photo: Copyright - What's Cooking, Malta?
Ali Baba has been serving tantalising Lebanese cuisine for over two decades. The prices in my opinion are a bit too steep but the cuisine is excellent.
You'll find traditional dishes from Lebanon as well as North African specialities, elegantly prepared and plated. The service is great but the atmosphere, especially when busy, is less to be desired.
Still deserving to be included in the guide.
Ali Baba
Ponsonby Street
Gzira
Website
14
Tartarun, Marsaxlokk
Tartarun is one of Marsaxlokk's crown jewel. This restaurant, nestled in the heart of Malta's beloved fishing village, is renowned for their luxe fish and seafood dishes, which come as fresh as you can get.
Examples of dishes include fried veal sweetbreads and smoked eel salad with truffled parmesan custard.
The polished plating is impressive and the flavours are spot on.
Tartarun
Xatt is-Sajjieda
Marsaxlokk
Website
15
Taro at The Villa, St Julian's
I've been to Taro at The Villa twice and I must say, I felt like I was back in London's Mayfair! It isn't just about the food though, it is the whole dining experience from beginning to end.
I love the sleek interior design, the plating, the glassware, the service. I am pretty sure (fingers crossed) that it's on Michelin's radar.
Taro at The Villa
39 Main Street
St Julian's
Website
16
59 Republic, Valletta
59 Republic has won many local awards and it isn't hard to understand why. Chef Maria Sammut works hard to offer a fine dining experience that is sure to please even the most discerning diner.
Current menu items include Scottish scallop au gratin served with a petit micro salad and pan seared duck breast served with a classic spiced orange sauce. One of their signature dishes includes a fancy beef wellington Gordon Ramsay would be proud of.
59 Republic
59 Republic Street
Valletta
Website
Elsa Messi
Food connoisseur, curiosity feeder and travel queen. Londoner who has lived in Tokyo and now based in Malta.
I like what I C: Cheese, cats, consuming cuisines, canines, cooking, clothes and countries. I also like taking long romantic walks to the fridge.
