REVIEW: Marsovin Wine’s centenary dinner at de Mondion with two-Michelin-starred chef

Age isn't always just a number. If I ever happen to live until the grand old age of 100, I'd celebrate in style. And that's exactly what Marsovin Wines did.

To honour their centenary anniversary, Marsovin wines hosted a plethora of events but none were as decadent as the final one. A marvellous four-hands dinner hosted at the renowned de Mondion restaurant set within the luxurious four walls of Xara Palace in Mdina. A fitting venue for the ultimate climax.

Photo: Nicky Scicluna

I failed to mention that the four hands in this culinary circumstance were those of Kevin Bonello, de Mondion's head chef and Emanuele Scarello, chef patron of the two-Michelin-starred Ristorante Agli Amici in Udine, Italy.




Photo: Nicky Scicluna

The evening involved a six-course tasting menu of such finesse, paired with exceptionally carefully-selected Marsovin wines (including the 100th Anniversary limited edition wine in 5L bottles).

How I was lucky enough to get an invite to this soiree is beyond me, but I don't think anyone would've passed up the opportunity. And I even sat at the table with Jeremy Cassar (Marsovin's CEO) himself.

Photo: Nicky Scicluna

After exquisite canapés and a glass of Cassar de Malte Methode Traditionelle sparkling wine, served from 1.5L Magnum bottles, Nico Caruana, the Assistant Food and Beverage Manager and Head Sommelier of the Infinity Xara group, escorts me to our table.

The first course was a delicate pork sausage made mainly from pork's cheek. This was accompanied by shrimp mi-cuit (meaning half-cooked in French) and had the texture resemblant to a steak tartare. This combo laid on a bed of milk and horseradish cream.

Paired with 2019 1919 Chardonnay, Girgentina, Moscato. This wine was dry with fruity aromas of apples, limes and a floral hint of orange blossom. 

The creamy yet slightly firm risotto was perfectly simmered with sea urchins, parmeggiano and champagne. It was decadent in taste and was successfully finished off with oyster water and a Gillardeau oyster.

Paired with a 2018 Antonin Blanc with aromas of vanilla and burnt toast giving way to crisp citrus and apple notes on the palate.

The elegant veal fillet was rolled in anchovy crumbs and was slightly earthy in taste. The veal had a succulent juicy centre.

This dish was paired with a 2004 Grand Maitre en Magnum which was medium bodied with blackberry flavours and oak complexities. 

We were given a surprise dish which was caramelised polenta with cow's cheese from Malga and braised trumpet mushrooms. This was delicately earthy with outstanding contrasting textures.

The beef cheek was slow-cooked in red wine and bone marrow. This was served with celeriac and truffle shavings. So exquisitely tender, that it practically fell apart at the touch of my fork.

The 100th Anniversary Wine was the pairing of choice. It was a blend of  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Ġellewża Imqadded.

For dessert, we were given a creative caramelised pear and brie with hazelnut cream Jerusalem artichoke. Certainly a bold and creative dessert to say the least. The mix of sweet and savoury really impressed the tastebuds.

Paired with a sweet 2018 Guze Moscato.

The final course came in the form of Valrhona chocolate with sea salt caramel, blackberries and clementine, excellently-paired with the 2015 Guze Shiraz which had chocolate aromas and sweet yet spicy prune flavours.

I have been to about five of these Michelin four-hands dinners and up until now, this one has been my favourite.

www.marsovin.com
www.demondion.com