INTERVIEW: Michelin-starred chef Kevin Bonello, de Mondion, Mdina

I sat down with Chef Kevin Bonello a day after The de Mondion was awarded a Michelin, one of the three restaurants in Malta to have received a star. I asked him (off the record) how he celebrated  and he tells me that he hasn't even slept yet. Understandably. We sit down and I go straight for it.

When did your love of cooking begin?

At a very tender age. At that time, we were always brought up to entertain by my mother and grandmother. From this day on, my parents still always entertain at home, they invite people, friends and family so, it just came naturally.




Can you tell me a bit about your professional culinary background? How and when did it start?

I was very good academically at school. My initial career path was to become an engineer or a pilot and I passed all my exams. But then, when I was sixteen, my father found me a summer job in the kitchen. And I fell in love with it.

I worked for The Berkeley, The Savoy and Marco Pierre White’s  in London, then I moved to France to work at Le Bristol. I worked in Luxemburg, Spondi in Greece and Italy. I gained very good contacts by working with highly-acclaimed chefs like Massimiliano Alajmo.




I was employed at the late Charlie Trotters in Chicago and spent another four years there. So, it was a good experience. Then, I came back to Malta. At that time, I think I was twenty. There wasn’t much to do on the island. Then I found a job in a major hotel on the island where I spent about eight to nine months. It wasn’t my kind of thing.

This achievement, what we’ve achieved these days, is not something we just dreamed about last night. It’s been a constant development. 

How do you feel being one of the first restaurants in Malta to gain a star? 

When I got the news, I was lost for words for a couple of hours. It’s been quite a long time and it’s been a journey to achieve it. Now, the toughest thing is to keep it, let’s face it, it’s not easy. I feel happy, I feel humbled and I will remain the Kevin that I was. That’s my character. No one’s going to change me.




But more than anything, I feel proud, but I feel that it’s a reward for my people, for our employees, for the fellow chefs, the maître d and the waiting staff. And it’s a huge plus for the country. That’s how I see it, because now, the country is going to be put on the map. I know the industry is lacking good quality people. Year by year it’s getting worse. This thing will help people because it will be good recognition.

I was pleased that there wasn’t just one Michelin star restaurant but three, as well as the substantial amount of other restaurants that have been included in the Guide.




What does fine dining mean to you?

I don’t really wish to associate my kind of cuisine with fine dining. I’d like to associate it with a culinary journey… an experience. It’s the flair - how my people explain the dishes, how we are furnishing and serving the table. 

I know it’s early days but will you now, or in the future, be aiming for two stars?

It’s very early. The first aim is to keep one. Then obviously if we get a second one, why not? But, I do have another restaurant in the stakes, and our dream is to get another star in that restaurant, which is The Medina. We’re working on it.

If you had to eat,  your last meal on Earth, what would it be?

It’s quite a difficult question. It had to be fresh crusty bread with tomato paste, olive oil and local sheep cheese. That’s it. It brings a smile on my face. Although it’s simple, if it’s going to be my last meal, I have to die happily.

One more question. If you have some friends over at your house, what would you cook for them?

I do that very often. First of all, I give them some sheep cheese, some sausages and some wine. Then, it can be a good plate of pasta, calamari, or sea urchin as hors d'oeuvres. For mains, perhaps baked fish to share or a whole roast beef, It depends on the wine.