For The Love Of Fromage: The Dedicated French Cheese Spots In Malta
There are no strong enough words in the English language to accurately describe my love of cheese — especially French fermier cheese (there will be traces of cheese in my autopsy). The smellier the better. My fridge is regularly stocked with fromage Français, particularly strong goat cheeses and gooey raw milk numbers. I don’t even need the crackers. Just give it to me straight. If there’s a cheese selection on the dessert menu, the crème brûlée never stood a chance.
Malta’s fromagerie scene is minuscule, but it’s serious — and I’m not talking about a deli counter with a few blocks of brie next to the olives. These are places genuinely dedicated to the stuff. I have selected the ones that are not only good but… grate (I’ll see myself out).
Here they are in no particular order.
Atelier Michael Tabone — San Gwann
One of the first things I did before moving to Malta in 2018 was search for artisanal French cheese (I’m dead serious). I don’t know what was wrong with Google that day but I couldn’t find much — until I stumbled upon this place, which was a five minute walk from me, and you couldn’t have kept me away (I’ve since moved, but still a groupie.)
This is the Holy Grail of French fermier cheese and the best French wines. A fully-stocked counter — depending on the time you go, because people buy a lot — with everything sheep, goat and cow: the runny, spoonable Mont d’Or, funky ash-dusted Langres, delicate Mothais sur Feuille, earthy Morbier, fragrant Banon de Provence AOP, the creamy Rouelle, Le Claousou and more. Fresh Gillardeau oysters (the first to supply them in Malta), foie gras, top-tier Iberico ham sliced on the spot, and enough French wine to keep you busy.
The space has a living room quality to it — tastings, events, the kind of place you go in for one thing and somehow end up staying.
Atelier Michael Tabone
Triq Bellavista
San Gwann
Website
La Fromagerie at Baron Max Wines — Sliema
The selection at Baron Max is as long as the Old Testament and New Testament combined, so I’d be here all day writing them all down.
La Bouyguette — a long, crumbly goat’s cheese from South West France — the distinctively shaped Bonde de Gâtine, silky Camembert de Normandie, various bries from various regions, the rich triple-cream Brillat-Savarin, melty raclette, nutty Comté Réserve Vagne, the pungent washed-rind Époisses AOP, Fourme d’Ambert and more.
The shop is beautiful to look at and perfect if you don’t know exactly what you’re after, or if the existential crisis of staring at a cheese wall gets too much, there’s an efficient online shop.
Baron Max Wines
90 High Street
Sliema
Website
The White Sheep — Gżira
They weren’t kidding when they called themselves purveyors of all things delicious. The cheese offering leans French — Tomme de Chambrouze, Pyrénées Brebis, Brillat-Savarin, Brie de Meaux among others — and rotates, which keeps things interesting.
Everything is high quality and properly artisanal, and if you’re there at lunch, stay for it. Their sandwiches and salads are made using their own produce — charcuterie, cheese, extra virgin olive oils — on daily freshly-baked ciabatta or focaccia. The jambon is non-negotiable.
The White Sheep
405 Rue d’Argens
Gżira
Website
Don’t say you weren’t warned.
